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The
Trip: The Arc Dome Wilderness comprises the southern one-third of the Toiyabe Mountain Range. It lies about 60 miles north of Tonopah and to the west of the Big Smoky Valley. The wilderness area is centered around Arc Dome, which at 11,788 feet in elevation is the seventh highest peak in the state.
Jim
and Karen Stahl of Mustang
Outfitters provide us with horses and much of the camping gear we
will need for our overnight in the wilderness. The Stahls are licensed
outfitters and guides under special-use permit in the Toiyabe National
Forest. Karen and Jim Stahl know their horses well, which helps them match riders and mounts. Their string of about 30 horses is made up entirely of mustangs, most of them are Nevada mustangs. Each of them has a distinct personality and story. Meet our mounts... We are all, riders and horses alike, eager to hit the trail and begin our adventure. So we mount up and head out. There is a sign along the North Twin Trail that marks the boundary of the Arc Dome Wilderness Area. The area received its wilderness designation in 1989 and now incorporates 115,000 acres, making it the largest of Nevada's 25 wilderness areas. As with most designated wilderness areas, the Arc Dome does not permit motorized or mechanized use, mountain bikes or other wheeled transportation. Virgil says he enforces a strict Leave No Trace philosophy for backpackers, trail riders and other users. In the early part of the 20th century, there was some mining activity on the area. In fact the North Twin Trail was originally a mining road. Along the way, we take a break from the horses to get a closer look at some of the remains of the old mining operation. It's a water wheel that powered a mill that the miners used to process the ore.
The Arc Dome trails are used for a variety of users including hikers, backpackers, horseback riders, hunters and anglers. On multi-use trails like this, it is important to remember the rules trail etiquette. Because backpacks are bright colored and unusual shaped, a hiker can spook a horse. Therefore, it is advised that hikers yield the trail to packhorses or horseback riders. A spooked horse will tend to run uphill, so a hiker should move to the downhill side whenever possible. In addition, it sometimes helps the horse identity the hiker or backpacker as a human — and not a predator — if they speak in calm and even tones during an encounter.
We reach the Mustang Outfitters camp in the Sheep Canyon area in the late afternoon. We have plenty of time to get the horses settled for the night and to make ourselves comfortable. After a delicious meal courtesy of Jim and Karen — complete with brownies cooked in a Dutch oven — it's time for a round of campfire stories. The stars are bright in the clear mountain sky when we call it a night and head to our tents. On the second day of the trip, we wake to a gorgeous sunrise and another beautiful day in the Toiyabes. So after a hearty breakfast, we mount up again and head out. We are going to tackle the Arc Dome and climb to the top of the mountain. This trail is steeper and more mountainous. I empathize with the horses as they work to get us up the mountain. At the same time, I am glad to let them do some of the climbing. Knowing, we will get our chance later.
The volcanic stone of Arc Dome and the neighboring peaks give the area a reddish brown tinge. The ridge has sometimes been labeled as "the Red Toiyabes." From up top the geology of the range is easy to see and you can observe the marks of glaciation that helped shape the landscape. It's a 360 degree panorama that is simply breathtaking! After a brief break to catch our breath, it is back in the saddle and down the mountain. Thunderstorms are beginning to form on the horizon, so we ride toward the North Twin Trail our path out of the Arc Dome Wilderness. Even with a sore muscle or two, I hate to see this particular adventure end. What a beautiful place, and what an incredible experience! Thanks to the advisors and contributors of Wild Nevada Program #124:
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This
adventure is a two-day trail ride through the Arc Dome Wilderness with
Virgil Mink, Wilderness Manager in the Toiyabe National Forest, as my
guide. 
The
Arc Dome Wilderness lies within three miles of both Highway 21 and Highway
376. We access the area at the South Twin Trailhead on the east side
of area just a few miles north of the Carver's.
Virgil
explains that the miners actually dismantled and packed a truck through
the rough canyon entrance on mules. They re-assembled it and used it
to transport the ore from the mine. The miners drove it as far as they
could, and then the ore would be packed onto mules and hauled the rest
of the way out.
The
views along the ride are gorgeous. The higher elevations feature stands
of pinion and juniper with occasional clusters of aspen. The lower meadow
areas have grass and sage with plenty of wildflowers still in bloom.
We climb up out of a meadow area and onto a saddle where we reach an
overlook. The valley and the waters of the Reese River stretch out below
us. 
We
reach our staging point, which is at roughly 11,000 feet in elevation.
We leave the horses at a small stand of trees before we head out on
foot to climb the final part of the peak. Jim calls this climb a heart
tester and a lung cleaner. By the time we reach the top, we are all
in agreement with him.