Wild Nevada

The Trip:
On this trip Rich Moreno joins us. Rich is the publisher of Nevada Magazine and has written a number of books about traveling in Nevada. As a writer and explorer, he is familiar with Nevada and its boundless opportunities for adventure. He joins Wild Nevada to share some of his favorite destinations in Central Nevada.

The adventure begins at Walker Lake. The lake's existence spans millions of years. The modern lake supports fish and thousands of breeding and migrating water birds, including spring and fall visits from 1,400 common loons — the largest known congregation west of the Mississippi. It is a popular destination for fishing, hiking, and picnicking.

Candelaria, Nevada From Walker Lake, we drive south on US Highway 95 through the town of Walker and into Hawthorne. Continuing on, we pass through the ammunition bunkers on the way out of town and drive the 49 miles to the turn-off for the ghost town of Candelaria. A road sign directs us to turn west and a paved road takes us right up to townsite of what was once the largest town in the Mineral County. The mines flourished for a while, but like so many boom and bust stories, it came to an end fairly quickly. A fire in the early 1880's, followed by a labor strike, began the decline of Candelaria. Today, a modern gold mining operation has changed the landscape, and little is left but a handful of crumbling structures and some rusty reminders of what use to be.

Next, we are on to a geological curiosity known as "The Sump." We return to Highway 95 and drive south about 14 miles. We are traveling over Redlich Summit and parallel to the White Mountain Range and Boundary Peak to the west. We turn onto US Highway 6 and head west for about six miles then travel south on State Route 773. Nine miles down the road is the junction of State Route 264. About half a mile before that junction, we turn left off-road. A four-wheel drive high clearance vehicle is a must for this part of the trip — especially when the dirt road drops into a wash. About a mile and a half up the wash, we park and walk into The Sump.

A view of "The Sump" Twenty-five million years ago, The Sump was part of an ancient lake known as Lake Esmeralda. Runoff carried mud and other sediment into the lake, and over the eons it dried and hardened, leaving behind a multicolored crust over the landscape. Volcanoes sent ash into the air, which then was added to the mix. Millions of years of geological upheaval, eruptions and erosion from wind and water combined to create the mile and a half of natural sculpture.

The Sump is incredible place — sublime and serene at the same time. The textures and colors of the landscape are so unusual you really do feel like you've stepped out of desert into a strange and isolated world. After we explore the area, we retrace our steps to Highway 95 and continue the 41-mile journey to our evening's destination, Tonopah.

Legend has it that Tonopah was founded when Jim Butler picked up a rock to throw at his wandering mule and noticed the rich ore in the rock he had picked up. Whether the story is true or not, Butler established some of Nevada richest claims, including the Mizpah Mine. Tonopah developed as a result. As the initial boom died, the town adjusted and, unlike many mining towns, survived.

Tonopah Historic Mining Park Today Tonopah is located on US Highway 95 and in many ways acts as a service center for the region. The community has a strong military presence. Tonopah remembers its colorful history fondly. Every summer, the community remembers its origins by celebrating Jim Butler Days, and the Tonopah Historic Mining Park keeps the area's mining legacy alive. The park covers more than 100 acres and stretches over parts of five of the major mining operations that were once active in this area. The park's hours change during the year, so it's a good idea to call ahead if you're planning to visit. Park curator Shaun Hall leads us on a tour of the park; visiting hours change throughout the year so it's a good idea to call ahead if you're planning to visit.

From Tonopah, we head five miles east on Highway 6 to the junction of State Route 376. We drive north for 37 miles to the junction of State Route 377. From there, it's seven miles east to the town of Manhattan.

Manhattan, Nevada Manhattan, Nevada, will never be confused with the one to the East Coast, but it has it's own unique charms. This was one of the fastest growing towns during its boom day. Gold was discovered here in 1905, and the rush was on. In a period of two weeks in January of 1906, four thousand people moved here.

Like Candelaria, there is an active open pit mine nearby, so the landscape isn't exactly the same as it was back in the old days. At one point there were thirteen mines and 16 placers in operation, some with unusual names like Stray Dog, September Fraction, White Caps, and Litigation Hill Merger. Manhattan has a handful of residents and offers visitors the opportunity to explore some beautiful high desert country and historic buildings, including the picturesque Manhattan Church. There are two bars where you can enjoy a cold drink during your explorations.

As we head back to the highway and home, we thank Rich for guiding us on this adventure.

Thanks to the advisors and contributors of Wild Nevada Program #118:

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