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Wild Nevada
This trip is featured in Wild Nevada #301, "Gold Butte."
Click HERE for the map segment from this trip.

 
 

The Trip:
Alvin McLaneOn this trip we explore the rugged Gold Butte region in the Virgin Mountains. The Gold Butte region is in the southeast corner of Nevada , just west of the Nevada-Arizona border. We use Mesquite, NV, as the base and starting point of this trip. Joining us on this trip is our good friend and longtime guide, Alvin McLane.

Mesquite has a fascinating history. It actually took early settlers three attempts to establish the town and for it to eventually prosper into what we see today. Mesquite 's roots trace back to the mid-1800s when a small group of Mormon pioneers tried to irrigate and settle the Mesquite Flats on the Virgin River. They built an extensive irrigation system, but this venture ended in disaster when flash floods devastated the small community.

In 1887, a second group, the Dudley Leavitt family, tried to resettle the Mesquite Flats. But after a four-year struggle, they gave up and abandoned the area. Then in 1897, six young families from nearby Bunkerville succeeded where the others had failed. They rebuilt the ruined irrigation canals and conquered the land. Soon other settlers were attracted to settle in the area, and the town shortened its name to Mesquite .

For some time cotton and raisins were the cash crops for the small community, at least until the automobile brought travelers and tourists. In response to a burgeoning tourism trade, entrepreneurs in Mesquite opened motels, cafes, dairy barns and an egg house.

It wasn't until the 1970s, with the completion of Interstate 15, that Mesquite 's growth really took off. In 1984, the town incorporated and by the 1990s, Mesquite was quickly becoming one of Nevada 's top tourism spots. Today, Mesquite is mainly known for one thing - Golf! The Virgin Mountain foothills provide a spectacular background for the community's six beautifully designed courses.

Wild Nevada #401: Between putting greens, if you find yourself with some spare time, take the historic walking tour of downtown Mesquite. There are about two dozen historic buildings or sites to visit. The original public square, Block School Gymnasium is still standing, as is the Charles Arthur Hughes House. The old Vonda's Café, which dates back to the 1930s, is still in operation under a new name. Then, be sure to stop in at the Virgin Valley Heritage Museum, where you can follow Mesquites' growth from farm community to golf destination.

Leaving Mesquite, we take State Route 170 for about 10 miles. Not far out of town, we pass the historic Bunkerville. After coming around a curve, we make a quick left-hand turn onto the Gold Butte Scenic Byway. Within a short time, we pass another well-known area landmark, an ostrich farm.

Wild Nevada #401: The Gold Butte region is a geological jackpot. The area is filled with jagged limestone and basalt peaks that reach over 5,000 feet into the sky. There are jumbled granite boulder fields and twisted sandstone sculptures painted in pinks, browns and reds.

Our first stop on this trip is about 21 miles from the Scenic Byway turnoff to our first stop - Whitney Pocket; (GPS Location: 11 S 0756582, UTM 4045608). Whitney Pocket is a series of unusual rock formations and outcroppings at the western end of the Virgin Mountains. The site contains dwellings built into the rock overhangs and caves, as well as a retaining wall or dam structure for holding water. Alvin explains to us that the dam was a CCC project built sometime in the 1930s.

Horsemen and off-roaders use Whitney Pocket as a base of exploration. It's a gateway of sorts to a network of old mining roads. But for hikers, Whitney Pocket is a great place to tackle on foot with many crevices and niches around the base of the sandstone mountains. And since we had the luck to visit in mid-spring, we had the chance to see the wild flowers are in full bloom.

We also left a Geocache at Whitney Pcoket, (GPS Location: 11 S 0756582, UTM 4045608). Just head toward the small walled-in shelter not far from the dam and keep your eyes peeled!

Soon, we move on to our next destination. We head south again for 8 miles, and our paved road is replaced with a well-maintained, solid gravel road. Whether you have a 4x4 or a sedan, you can easily make this leg of the trip.

Wild Nevada #401: We receive a reminder as we drive. A reminder that when you travel desert back roads you need to keep watch for wildlife. Not far from Whitney Pockets, Chris spies a slow moving creature making its way across the road. It's a desert tortoise! In all the time we traveled on the show, this is the first tortoise we've seen. Desert tortoises are extremely shy so you have to keep your distance from them. This land dwelling turtle has a high domed shell and columnar, elephant-shaped hind legs. The first one we encounter appears to be fairly old, based on its size. We actually end up being doubly lucky on this day of the trip, because we also find another, younger tortoise who is just beginning to make its way across the road. It is much smaller but just as intriguing to watch.

Wild Nevada #401: We finally reach Devil's Throat after turning right at the marker and traveling a short quarter of a mile more; (GPS Location: 11 S 0755661, UTM 4034922). This landmark's name inspires an array of images. No matter what your imagination can conjure, this huge sink hole is an amazing sight. It sits on an alluvial fan south of the Virgin Mountains . The hole is more than a 100 feet deep and almost a wide. It is fenced off to protect animals and travelers who may come across the sink hole unawares, and because it is still settling and growing, meaning the edges of the hole are fairly unstable and not safe for those who want a really, really close look.

Our next destination is a petroglyph site in the area. Since we'll be traveling off-road we will need a high clearance SUV. The dirt tracks we follow ARE rough and the going is definitely slow. And while we only travel about two miles, it feels like 10 — but the payoff is definitely worth it. The petroglyph panels in the area are amazing!

Wild Nevada #401: While this site has been an amazing visit into the past, we still have one more location on our itinerary so we stay on the dirt tracks heading to the Mud Wash area. The slot canyons are about 7 miles southeast from Devil's Throat. It's another slow bumpy ride, but as we approach our destination we are greeted with some spectacular scenery; (GPS Location: 11 S 0749138, UTM 4035206).

The canyons are a great place for hiking and sightseeing with lots of great slot canyons and intriguing rock formations. If you visit the area don't forget to bring your imagination. It's so easy to see shapes and figures in the erosion-sculptured rock. There are gargoyles, lizards, cats, even faces and some skulls.

It has been an amazing trip! Full of gorgeous desert scenery.

 

Thanks to the advisors and contributors of Wild Nevada, Program #301:

Click HERE for the map segment from this trip.
(Map from Nevada Road & Recreation Atlas by Benchmark maps. Used by permission.)

Email us with your comments and destination suggestions.

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